All I want is to remember some damn waves. The rest is just a blur of blue walls and whitewash. I have poured thousands of hours into an activity only to have access to maybe thirty seconds of the good stuff. My brain’s prioritization skills are suspect at best. Cheez in Maryland circa 1997, but press me on recounting five complete waves over my twenty years of surfing and I am guaranteed to come up short. I can remember in vivid detail an entire animatronic performance at a Chuck E. For all the time that I’ve spent surfing, thinking about surfing, and writing about surfing, I don’t recall many specific waves. This is a totally fictitious scenario, but I like to imagine it COULD happen.
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